Recyclex advances chemical textile recycling: novel methods for elastane detection and removal

Innovative solutions by Recyclex 

The Recyclex project, a collaboration between VITO, KULeuven and Centexbel, aims to revolutionize textile recycling by directly addressing the main obstacle faced in chemical recycling of textiles: the presence of elastane fibers and dyes. The project introduces several groundbreaking innovations to address this problem:

Novel optical detection approach 

The project will develop a new approach for optical detection, allowing for the efficient differentiation of textiles based on their elastane content. This will be based on a recently patented optical detection and sorting platform developed by KULeuven. This innovation will be compatible with industrial sorting processes, making it a game-changer for the recycling industry. 

Selective elastane removal 

KU Leuven has developed a new class of splitting agents that enable the selective depolymerization of elastane from polyester, despite their chemical similarities. This process uses fewer chemicals compared to state-of-the-art extraction methods and can be combined with decolorization, making it highly efficient and environmentally friendly. The process will be applied in the project, allowing to obtain elastane-free textiles suitable for processing by the current textile recycling methods. 

Process intensification

The process to remove elastane will be transformed into a continuous process, based on an approach already applied in biomass processing by VITO. This includes the development of tailored shaped solid catalysts by VITO, which will be combined with novel selective sorbents to allow simultaneous dye removal. This ensures the reuse of the elastane splitting agent and the valorization of elastane-derived reaction products. 

Comprehensive Approach to Textile Recycling 

The Recyclex project covers all aspects of the textile recycling value chain, including a valorization assessment of the product streams by CENTEXBEL & VITO. This comprehensive approach promises to make a significant contribution to the recycling sector in Flanders, which is known to have enormous potential. 

Meeting EU Waste Directive Guidelines 

The innovation Recyclex develops, is urgently needed, as the EU waste directive has established strict guidelines to elevate textile recycling figures. By 2025, the separate collection of textiles will become mandatory, and by 2030, recycled fiber content will be compulsory with strictly regulated exports. 

Supporting Environmental Goals 

The Recyclex project fits within Moonshot, a business-driven innovation program of the Flemish Government that supports industry in reducing its CO₂ emissions. This initiative not only addresses the pressing issue of textile waste but also aligns with broader environmental goals. 
 

Figure

(top) Elastane occurs in textiles as interwoven and core-spun fibers. After applying our novel detection approach, the elastane fibers are clearly distinguishable from the surrounding cotton fibers.

(bottom) General approach and objectives of Recyclex.